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Durham Cathedral is a very special building for a number of reasons to the extent that the author, Bill Bryson wrote it was “the best cathedral on Planet Earth.” Building began in 1093 and was to take 40 years to complete. If you are in the North-East of England, it should be number one on your list of places to visit. It is a good example of Romanesque architecture with its rounded or semi-circular arches, typical of architecture under the Normans (Norman castles have these arches too). When built it was Britain’s tallest building and must have amazed onlookers at a time when buildings were mainly made out of wood with wattle and daub walls and a thatched roof. It is home to the shrine of St Cuthbert, on of England's most important saints and the Venerable Bede.
It is debatable which is the best doom painting in Britain but it is not debatable that the doom painting at Holy Trinity Church Coventry is one of the best. The Art Historian and documentary maker, Graham Andrew Dixon wrote on his website, “The picture must be counted one of the most important discoveries to have been made in the field of medieval art.” He adds, “it is a vigorously scary depiction of the moment when the Last Trump shall sound, painted in a crude but bold style and teeming with fascinating and unusual detail. It is hard to think of a more potent relic of English fifteenth-century dread.”
The old phrase “A picture is worth a thousand words” is very appropriate when looking at the magnificent Wenhaston doom painting. In the medieval world where few people could read, a painting of the events of the “Last Judgement” would carefully show what was going to happen to souls when the world would come to an end. This would guide people to manage their lives to ensure a wonderful future. The picture of Hell left no one in doubt that sinners would have a horrible future. The doom painting at Wenhaston is in remarkable condition with very little missing or incomprehensible.
All Saints has been described as a “charming jewel of a church adjacent to the beautiful Chilterns’ countryside”. Once inside, one look at the walls demonstrates why it has been given this description. Star of the paintings is a virtually complete St George, St John the Evangelist and St James. Others are not quite so clear but with a little effort and time, various features from the stories of other saints can be interpreted can be recognised. An example of this is St Francis of Assisi, who can be identified by the presence of birds. There are also six medieval tiles and clues that show that the Church was built in two distinct phases.
St Mary’s Church North Leigh, on the outskirts of the Cotswolds and north-west of Oxford, is a fascinating place to visit. To me, the star of the show is a wonderful doom painting which, unlike many, is in good condition. Medieval parishioners participating in services would have no doubt what awaited them when the inevitable happened and they died. The three panels of their doom painting left it very clear. Only a 10 minute drive away is another incredible doom painting at South Leigh. St Mary’s can also boast of a chantry chapel with fan vaulting, a knight’s effigy with links to the Lancastrian side in the Wars of the Roses and a Saxon tower.
South Leigh doom painting north west of Oxford is a great example of what medieval people were expected to believe. Unlike some paintings with large areas lost, this doom painting is clear and easy to understand. At the Last Judgement, souls are summons from graves and decision are made as to their future. Heaven, on the left as the observer sees it, welcomes all sorts but likewise Hell on the right, also welcomes kings, queens, bishops and a whole variety of sinners. The devils surrounding Hell look gruesome as does a monster with a large, gaping mouth coming out of Hell to catch them. Allied to the doom painting is a medieval wall painting of St Michael weighing souls to see who goes to heaven and who has sinned so much that they will end up in Hell. Again, various Devils are in the painting and in this case trying to influence the decision. Also at South Leigh is a wall painting of St Clement and a painting of the “Seven Deadly Sins”.
Life in medieval times in the north-east of England was one full of danger with a constant threat of war. Viking raids, as well as raids from Scotland, were a regular problem and from time to time kings of England came to this area to consolidate their power. Warkworth was owned by the powerful Percy family for over 600 years who preferred it to the much larger Alnwick castle. The Percy’s were renowned for taking some poor decisions in dynastic wars and losing their lives as well as their properties and titles. One Percy known as “Harry Hotspur” became a popular knight and has been remembered over the years for featuring in Shakespeare’s Henry IV part one.
Completed in 1952 and maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, this peaceful cemetery is the last resting place for 4144 named Commonwealth (the UK and former British Empire) soldiers and 338 unidentified ones. Added to this, are 500 graves of soldiers from other countries, the majority being German. It is a fascinating place to visit and observe all the different headstones and some of the stories they tell. The cemetery provides a solemn and peaceful atmosphere, with meticulously maintained rows of white headstones bearing the names of those who fell in the line of duty.
The German cemetery at La Cambe is a stark contrast to the American Cemetery at Colleville and the British Cemetery at Bayeux. Both are nearby and all three are well worth a visit. It is much smaller than Colleville, being 16.5 acres compared to Colleville’s 172.5 but contains 21 222 soldiers whilst Colleville has 9380 servicemen. However, what stands out the most is that Colleville allocates one white cross per soldier, Bayeux has one quite large white/beige headstone per soldier, whereas, La Cambe has two bodies per stone. Furthermore, each stone is small, flat on the ground and is grey in colour.
When planning the D Day invasion, it was imperative to take out the the six 155mm guns at the top of Pointe Du Hoc. These massive guns were 4 miles (6.5) km) from the centre of Omaha Beach and 7 miles (11km) from Utah beach . They had a range of 15 miles (25km) and so both of the American landing beaches were easily within their range. This post is about the incredible bravery of the Rangers in climbing 100 feet cliffs, whilst under attack and successfully taking out the various gun emplacements at the top. However, the expected six large guns had disappeared!
The Airborne Museum, focusing on the daring D Day Operations of the 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions, is an exciting place to visit. To many visitors, especially young people, this museum is nothing short of awesome. It boasts being immersive and lives up to that description. Each entrant is given a Histopad, like an iPad to use to enhance their visit and to satisfy their enquiring minds. There are numerous full size dioramas as well as parachutes to wear , planes with paratroopers to walk through, imaginary jumps to make and loads of artefacts to study.
Combine a visit to the church of St Mere Eglise with a visit to the amazing Airborne Museum next door and you will have an enjoyable day out. Anyone who goes past this church without knowing the story of John Steele will think a parachutist snagged on a church tower is very peculiar. It commemorates his terrible mishap when he was parachuting into the German held Cherbourg peninsula on D Day. Steele was meant to land just outside St Mere Eglise but his pilot was inexperienced and visibility was difficult due to extensive cloud cover. Steele was dropped right above the village and unfortunately, he was to snag his parachute on a pinnacle of the church.
Anyone with an interest in the D Day Landings should definitely visit the gun battery at Longues Sur Mer. The shear size of the casements and their guns suggest that they were untouchable. One gets the feeling that any shell coming out of their barrels would go a long way and do an awful lot of damage. Several attempts were made to put them out of action before they finally succumbed to naval bombardment on D Day. They could have made the successful D- Day Landings into a total disaster.
The Overlord Museum is particularly good when combined with the American Military Cemetery at Colleville and an excursion onto Omaha Beach. It has loads of fascinating exhibits from the Omaha landings and has some particularly impressive large dioramas. People of all ages will enjoy this museum, including children although people who have studied this period of history in depth may require a little extra information of some of the smaller exhibits.
A visit to the Pegasus Bridge Memorial Museum is a must for anyone wanting to discover the major D Day events. With the D Day seaborne invasion planned for daybreak of the 6th June, there needed to be protection of both the left and right flanks and this was to be done by three airborne divisions just after midnight. Guarding the right flank in the Cotentin Peninsula (as seen from the sea) was the responsibility of the 82nd and 101st, Airborne Divisions, totalling 13,000 troops. The left flank, principally, the area around the Caen Canal and the River Dives, was to be the responsibility of the British 6th Airborne Division and Pegasus Bridge was a key target to capture.
Gold Beach was one of five beaches in Normandy for the planned landings. This account tells you what actually happened there on June 6th 1944, D Day. It is a story of heroism and determination to rid France of Nazi tyranny. Any planned attack on Gold Beach was to be faced initially by a whole variety of obstacles and mines that would rupture any landing craft. British troops could be landed at low tide to expose the obstacles but that would mean exposing the landed men to running ashore without any protection against machine gun fire.
Opened on 6th June 2021, the memorial contains the names of 22,442 servicemen and women under British command who died on D Day and in the weeks after D Day to break out of Normandy. It also includes service men and women of 30 other nationalities who were serving in British units. The names of those who died are listed in chronological order, placing each name with the names of others who died on each particular day from D Day until August 31st. Using the free App that accompanies the memorial reveals some fascinating stories of very courageous people.
Find out about Mulberry harbour B, a remarkable engineering feat of the Allies that enabled them to consolidate their foothold in Normandy. In the Arromanches museum you can discover all about that the harbour as well as other aspects of the D Day landings. It was an extraordinary accomplishment to build a prefabricated harbour, tow it across the English Channel and place it where one never existed before. Added to that, it had to withstand numerous natural difficulties such as the waves and the tides as well as German attacks. Then go up to the cliffs overlooking Arromanches to see the remains of a mulberry harbour and visit the 360 Circular Cinema to see a film on the D Day landings and the battle for Normandy.
The D Day Story in Portsmouth: A Journey into History
Visiting the D Day Story in Portsmouth is an experience that should not be missed. It offers a unique opportunity to delve into the pivotal events of World War II and gain a deeper understanding of the Normandy landings. Firstly, the museum houses an impressive collection of artifacts and exhibits that bring the history to life, allowing visitors to see and touch items used during the D Day operations. From uniforms and weaponry to personal belongings and diaries, these tangible pieces of history create a profound connection with the past. Secondly, the museum provides a comprehensive narrative, guiding visitors through the planning, execution, and aftermath of the landings. The informative displays, interactive exhibits, and audiovisual presentations offer a multi-sensory experience, immersing visitors in the sheer scale and bravery of the operation.The opportunity to walk along the seafront, imagining the battleships on the horizon and the intensity of the momentous day, adds an extra layer to the visit.
This blog answers the question, “Why was D Day significant ?” It also deals with several questions including what happened on that day. It highlights artefacts and displays in various museums in France and the D Day Story in Portsmouth. By 1944, all across Europe, people’s former freedoms were now denied them and Jews were rounded up to be executed in the “Holocaust”. The Nazis needed to be removed from all occupied areas and freedom restored. D Day in June 1944 was one of the events that turned the tide on German expansion. Invading France was no easy operation. In 1942, the British and Canadians had attempted an invasion of Dieppe which resulted in an embarrassing disaster. Far resources of all kinds were needed for a successful invasion. The coastal defences would have to be bombarded from the air and sea with a vast array of planes and ships. More planes would be needed to guarantee air superiority to allow troops to be landed unhindered. Numerous vehicles and contraptions would have to be invented and manufactured to clear away all of the beach devices to allow the men to land and have a clear way to getting ashore.
Begun in 1096, Norwich Cathedral has become a wonderful example of Romanesque architecture with its huge semi circular Norman arches. Looking upwards reveals one of its amazing gems, the highly coloured 700 roof bosses telling the Biblical story from the “Creation” to the “Last Judgement” and greatly outnumbering all other cathedrals in the country. Norwich has the second largest cloisters in England but again looking up reveals more gems, this time, a brilliant collection of green men including the famous gold leaved one in the photo above. Looking down in the choir, on the other hand, gives you a chance to see some great misericords. It is also the place where two fascinating people, Julian of Norwich and Edith Cavell, are commemorated.
If you are into stunning architecture, this place fits the bill. It is often quoted that King’s College Chapel “is one of the finest examples of late perpendicular gothic English architecture”. Although begun by Henry VI, as you walk to the entrance, you will see the Tudor stamp and two steps inside, you will be bowled over by, what one of the guides described as, “Tudor Bling”! Look closely at the rood screen and you will see intertwined H and A standing for Henry VIII and his second wife, Anne Boleyn. Added to this are 25 beautiful Tudor stained glass windows created by the finest Flemish craftsmen of the day. At the end of this blog you will see some excellent examples of green men, something we always look for in churches and cathedrals.
Your first view of Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple at Deer el-Bahari will leave you stunned. What an amazing place with some people believing that this is the most beautiful of all the Egyptian temples. Hatshepsut, was to become a royal princess, the “Great Royal Wife”, Queen of Egypt, Queen Regent of Egypt and finally, Pharaoh in her own right, despite not being male. She was to wear the royal kilt of a pharaoh, the crowns of Upper and Lower Egypt, as well as a false beard just like all other Pharaohs. Many egyptologists believe that she was an astute and wise leader who had the ability to choose good advisers. To leave her mark, she did not only build her mortuary temple, she also erected 4 obelisks at the Karnak temple in Luxor. The red granite obelisks weighed up to 250 000 tons and had to use 27 boats to move them from Aswan in the south.
The Great Sphinx, was it built by Djedefre or Khafre. Could it be a story of intrigue, murder, mystery and more? When one thinks of famous historical monuments to visit in the world, the Sphinx will always near the top of the list, especially when a visit to the Sphinx will take in the stunning pyramids nearby. At 245 feet long (75.5 metres) and 65 feet tall (20metres) it is a very large statue although it is somewhat belittled by the pyramids behind it. Who built the tallest pyramid? Khafre’s pyramid at first sight looks taller than Khufu’s Great Pyramid but this is an optical illusion, mainly because it was built on higher land.
The Great Pyramid should be on your "bucket list" but why not see it now? Great Pyramid, is the first and only existing one of the “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World”. It was originally 481 feet tall but now is only 451 ft due to losing its top 30feet. It was built by Pharaoh Khufu known as Cheops by the Greeks, who was the second king of the 4th dynasty, ruling from 2589-2566 BC. It was built to be Khufu’s monumental tomb and his vehicle to the afterlife but when his sarcophagus was opened it was empty. It was yet another robbed burial place.Oddly, when you see it next to his son, Khafre’s pyramid, it looks smaller but this is due to Khafre’s being built on a higher part of the plateau. Possibly, out of deference to his father, Khafre’s is smaller. Khufu’s pyramid was the highest building on the planet for the next 4000 years!
Pharaoh Sneferu, is seen by many as the greatest ever pyramid builder. He ruled Egypt from 2613-2589 and was the first pharaoh of the fourth dynasty. He went down in history as the man who built 3 pyramids, the “Medium Pyramid”, the “Bent Pyramid” and the “Red Pyramid”. Unfortunately, the first two presented Sneferu and Neferma’at, his eldest son, vizier and architect, with big problems but to their credit, they had a third attempt and constructed the Red Pyramid. This was the first “true pyramid” with straight sides and a square base. When people refer to a pyramid, this is what is envisaged.
The amazing stepped pyramid is a major turning point in Egyptian and arguably, world history. It is a turning point because it led to one hundred pyramids being built in Egypt and it is the first monumental stone building in the world. To build pyramids, required a huge workforce and an economic system to support the construction, the builders and to finance it all. When completed, it would have been stunning close up and being 60 m high, it could be seen for miles around and therefore, leave a lasting impression that this was a monument built for an awesome king. Today, when one thinks of Egypt, one thinks of pyramids and this was the first. Before it, pharaohs were buried in the ground and later on, in “mastabas”, small, low level, mud brick constructions, that lacked conveying any form of status. From now on pyramids were to be seen, not as a pharaoh’s last resting place but as a popular TV programme has put it, a resurrection machine.
Okehampton Castle s a romantic medieval ruin set in the beautiful Devon countryside with some fascinating former owners with stories to tell. Exploring the castle is an engaging experience. Built, soon after the Battle of Hastings and as part of the Norman Conquest, the castle had a vital role to play in consolidating William the Conqueror’s control of the rebellious South-West of England. Built on a natural spur of high land above the valley of the River Okement, its location was carefully chosen to dominate the area and be very difficult to successfully attack. Having seen little action in its early years, it became a hunting lodge for its owners to carry out their favourite pastime and entertain as well as impress, its illustrious guests. It was eventually owned by the Courtenay family who became involved in national politics and suffered some great setbacks with Thomas Courtenay, in 1461 and Henry Courtenay, in 1538, paying the ultimate price of beheading.
Based in Bowral, New South Wales, the Bradman Museum and International Cricket Hall of Fame is a must visit for all cricket fans. Why is it at Bowral you may ask? It was where Donald Bradman spent his formative years, a man to have the highest test cricket average of 99.4 with no one else anywhere near this achievement to date. However, the museum is not just about Bradman, it tells the story of Cricket from Anglo-Saxon origins, to King Edward II and beyond.